Wednesday, October 14, 2020

Adding a Simple 240v 30A Switch Box

With the completion of the upgrades to the kettles to have 240v electric elements in the HLT and BK, I now needed to just put in a 30A GFCI breaker and an L14-30R 4 prong outlet (I needed neutral to be able to supply the 120v break out for my Ranco controllers and the pumps).  This would then wire via a typical L14-30 generator cord to a breakout/switch box on the brew frame (with proper ground) that would allow me to switch on a 3 prong L6-30 cord that I would plug into either the HLT or the BK, depending on need.

Yes, Chris had been trying to convince me I needed to just get a full blown eBrew Panel, but I figured I'd start with this cheap and simple alternative. After all, the only reason I would use it was as an assist to my gas primary. It would help quickly boost my HLT temps and easily bring the BK up to boil at first wort. After that, I would turn them off and use the temp controllers of my gas solenoid for the HLT and a subtle dial back of the gas valve on the BK to maintain a rolling boil. If while boiling, I needed to heat the HLT, I could just pop the cord back on there and not compete with the boil for gas. Simple!

30A Switch Box30A GFCI with L6-30R plug below

After wiring up the switch box and breaking out one of the 120v legs to power the pump switch and the Ranco controllers, and making them mostly water resistant to splash/spray, I still needed to add another switch box for my second pump I had added...  But, this also had the added benefit of being able to be powered completely from my 9000W generator if the power ever went out during a brew session.  Yeah.

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